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1784 / Auteuil

Where Vice Is Suffered to Walk at Large

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To Mrs. Warren,

Although I have not yet written to you, be assured Madam, you have been the subject of some of my most pleasing thoughts. The sweet communion we have often had together and the pleasant hours I have passed both at Milton and Braintree I have not realized in Europe. I visit and am visited, but not being able to converse in the language of the country, I can only silently observe manners and men. I have been here so little while that it would be improper for me to pass sentence or form judgments of a people from a converse of so short duration. This I may, however, say with truth, that their manners are totally different from those of our own country. If you ask me what is the business of life here? I answer, pleasure. The beau monde, you reply. Ay, Madam, from the throne to the footstool it is the science of every being in Paris and its environs. It is a matter of great speculation to me when these people labor. I am persuaded the greater part of those who crowd the streets, the public walks, the theaters, the spectacles, as they term them, must subsist upon bread and water. In London the streets are also full of people, but their dress, their gait, every appearance indicates business—except on Sundays, when every person devotes the day, either at church or in walking, as is most agreeable to his fancy. But here, from the gaiety of the dress and the places they frequent, I judge pleasure is the business of life. We have no days with us in our country by which I can give you an idea of the Sabbath here, except commencement and election. Paris upon that day pours forth all her citizens into the environs for the purpose of recreation.

I believe this nation is the only one in the world which could make pleasure the business of life and yet retain such a relish for it as never to complain of its being tasteless or insipid; the Parisians seem to have exhausted nature and art in this science, and to be triste is a complaint of a most serious nature. In the family of Monsieur Grand, who is a Protestant, I have seen a decorum and decency of manners, a conjugal and family affection, which are rarely found, where separate apartments, separate pleasures and amusements show the world that nothing but the name is united. But while absolutions are held in estimation, and pleasure can be bought and sold, what restraint have mankind upon their appetites and passions? There are few of them left in a neighboring country amongst the beau monde, even where dispensations are not practiced. Which of the two countries can you form the most favorable opinion of, and which is the least pernicious to the morals? That where vice is licensed, or where it is suffered to walk at large soliciting the unwary and unguarded—as it is to a most astonishing height in the streets of London, and where virtuous females are frequently subject to insults. In Paris no such thing happens. The greatest decency and respect is shown by all orders to the female character. The stage is in London made use of as a vehicle to corrupt the morals. In Paris no such thing is permitted. They are too polite to wound the ear. In one country vice is like a ferocious beast, seeking whom it may devour; in the other like a subtle poison, secretly penetrating and working destruction. In one country you cannot travel a mile without danger to your person and property, yet public executions abound; in the other, your person and property are safe, executions are very rare—but in a lawful way, beware, for with whomsoever you have to deal, you may rely upon an attempt to overreach you. In the graces of motion and action this people shine unrivaled.

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Travel
About the Text

Abigail Adams, from a letter. Although not formally educated, Abigail Smith as a child made use of her father's voluminous library and was tutored by her grandmother. In 1764 she married John Adams, who often availed himself of his wife's keen political intelligence during his terms in public office, not only in America but also in France and England. She died at the age of seventy-three in 1818.

At no time are we ever in such complete possession of a journey, down to its last nook and cranny, as when we are busy with preparations for it. After that, there remains only the journey itself, which is nothing but the process through which we lose our ownership of it. This is what makes travel so utterly fruitless.
Yukio Mishima, 1948
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